Shinsakuto – katana blade – steel 1095 / differentially tempered / traditionally rolled

Shinsakuto – katana blade – steel 1095 / differentially tempered / traditionally rolled

What differentiates Japanese swords in general is the lamination method of the blades, the set of elements that compose it -koshirae – and the length (toshin) of these swords.

Japanese swords are measured in units shaku.

Beginning in 1891, "shaku” modern Japanese is roughly equal to one foot (11.93 inches). In the metric system – 10 meters represents 33 de shaku (30.30 cm a shaku).
However, shaku historically it was slightly larger (13.96 inches or 35.45 cm).

Thus, there can sometimes be confusion about the length of a blade, depending on which value shaku conversion is made to metric or English measurements.
The three main length sections for Japanese blades are:
• 1 shaku or less for so much (knife or dagger).
• 1-2 shaku for shoto (wakizashi or kodachi).
• 2 shaku or more for come on (long sword – katana or tachi).

The blades in our offer are made of hand-machined steel.

The carbon addition is 0.90 % for this steel.

Rolling Maru – it is a normal rolling, from a uniform steel.

Rolling Honsanmai – tsukurikomi (forming the steel block) from three separate pieces of hard steel (for sides and edge).

Rolling Shihozume – tsukurikomi (forming the steel block) from four separate pieces of hard steel (for the sides, back edge of the sword and blade).

Rolling Gommy – tsukurikomi (forming the steel block) of three layers: inside Hagan (hard steel), followed by a layer of shigane (mild steel) in a "U" shape and the third, outer layer is made of hagans

Technical details:

Additional Information:

1. Never touch the blade with your hand. If the blade still needs to be touched, use a silk cloth. Support the blade only on I'm sorry (the ridge on the back of the sword). When studying the blade of a katana its edge should be facing up.
2. When handling katana avoid breathing or talking over the blade. Steam and moisture can damage the blade. Remember – real blades rust! They are not made of stainless steel!
3. Never place the katana with a star on top (kissaki)!
4. When handing the katana to another person it is preferable that the sword is sheathed (saya).
5. If you have stored your katana for a long time and want to use it, check its condition very carefully.
6. Remove katana at least three months and anoint it with special oil. Before greasing it, it is recommended to remove the old oil with the help of powder uchiko. This is sprinkled on the blade and slowly absorbs the old oil. Then, with a piece of soft cloth, remove the oil-soaked dust. The blade is now ready to receive a new coat of special oil (incl nakago – the handle).
7. Once the lubrication is complete you can reassemble katana.

Through our offer you can build any model of shinkeYou don't want to buy the items separately.

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